Body hair is a reality—take it or leave it, the choice is entirely yours. But if it is something you do want to get rid of, you have plenty of options. There are more temporary solutions like shaving with a razor, using an at-home waxing kit, eyebrow threading, or even sugaring, plus a host of more permanent options like laser hair removal. The only truly permanent solution to unwanted hair, though? Electrolysis.
Meet the experts: Todd Minars, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Minars Dermatology in Los Angeles. Rachel Lozina is a licensed master esthetician, laser technician, oncology esthetician, and the founder of Blue Water Spa in New York. Hannah Kopelman, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and chief medical officer for DermOnDemand. Anna Chachon, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist based in Miami.
This solution may seem old school—it was uber-popular a decade or so ago—but it's trending again as spas and dermatologist's offices refine the technique. This is everything you need to know to get super-smooth.
So, what is electrolysis hair removal?
Electrolysis is a method of permanent hair removal, says Todd Minars, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Minars Dermatology in Los Angeles. Unlike many laser hair removal options on the market, the great thing about electrolysis is that it's effective on all skin and hair types, including those that don't normally respond to laser (think darker skin tones or those with blonde and gray hair, for example).
During this method of hair removal, which actually predates laser hair removal, a tiny needle is placed into the hair follicle, explains Rachel Lozina, licensed master esthetician, laser technician, oncology esthetician, and founder of Blue Water Spa in New York. "Then, an electrical current is sent to the root of the papilla of the hair follicle. This cauterizes the follicle lining so the hair can never regrow."
Does electrolysis hurt?
Electrolysis can be considered painful, but it all depends on your level of pain tolerance, says Hannah Kopelman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and chief medical officer for DermOnDemand, who notes that some areas of the body, like the upper lip, may be more sensitive than others (think: your legs). "From my experience, patients often describe the sensation of electrolysis as a warm prickling feeling," says Dr. Kopelman. The good news: If you're uncomfortable, your provider can apply topical anesthetics to minimize discomfort during the procedure.
When will I see results?
Results from electrolysis are not immediate, says Dr. Kopelman. "Since hair grows in different stages, multiple sessions are needed to target all hair in the active growth phase." Not to mention, the way hair grows varies from person to person, so results vary accordingly. In general, though, patients can expect to see significant results after several sessions spaced over a few months, says Dr. Kopelman.
How much does electrolysis cost?
The cost of electrolysis often varies based on the size of the area being treated, the number of sessions needed, and—sometimes—your geographical area. The cost of a one-hour session will generally run somewhere between $250 and $500, experts say. While this may seem expensive, it's comparable to laser hair removal, plus results are permanent, so there's no need to spring for touch-ups down the road.
What to know before getting electrolysis
Before booking an electrolysis appointment, do your research—this isn't the time to blindly use a Groupon. "You want to find someone highly skilled in this technique, because proper insertion of the current is paramount for successfully killing the follicle," says Lozina. When not done right, electrolysis can cause some scarring (pebbled texture) on the areas it was performed, she explains.
"I would always recommend scheduling a consultation before treatment so you can ask questions and be well prepared for the time commitment, prep and cost," says Anna Chachon, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Miami. "It is also important to go over medical history, your skin type and pain tolerance levels (so you can request a numbing cream if wanted), and any medications you are taking." There are some contraindications, too, including pacemakers and certain skin conditions, which your provider can assess during a consultation, adds Dr. Kopelman.
Once you've found the right provider, you'll want to prep your skin for your first appointment. Stop shaving about a week before your appointment and take steps, like moisturizing daily and avoiding topical retinols, to keep skin hydrated for your session. "I advise patients to avoid caffeine and to hydrate well before their electrolysis session, as this can help reduce sensitivity" says Dr. Kopelman. If you're getting electrolysis on your face, take any makeup off prior to your appointment.
And keep your calendar clear on the day of—electrolysis can be time-consuming. "Each hair follicle must be destroyed individually (whereas a laser can treat a 1cm diameter circle or more with each pulse)," says Dr. Minars. Though smaller areas, like the upper lip, may take only about 30 minutes per session, larger areas, like the legs, could take a couple of hours.
How to take care of your skin post electrolysis
Some patients may experience temporary redness or swelling following treatment, says Dr. Kopelman. You can use cold compress to provide some relief and help with inflammation, says Dr. Chacon, but you should avoid lotions and other cosmetics, including makeup, that could further irritate the area. "Keep the treated area clean and hydrated and do not touch or irritate the area which will help aid in the overall healing process," she says. Avoid sun exposure, too, says Dr. Kopelman.
Brigitt Earley
Contributing Writer
Brigitt is a writer, editor and craft stylist with nearly 15 years of experience. She specializes in lifestyle topics, including home, health, parenting, beauty, style, food, entertaining, travel and weddings. She has written for Glamour, People, Good Housekeeping, Women's Health, Real Simple, Martha Stewart, Apartment Therapy, The Spruce, and more.
